Every June, thousands of people come together to join parades, rock their flags, and celebrate Pride as a community. Drag queens, who have historically been at the front of the fight for queer and trans rights, are a beloved part of Pride celebrations. But what does makeup have to do with drag queens…and what does drag makeup have to do with our everyday lives?
What Are Drag Queens?
“Drag queen” is the term used to describe performers who dress in an exaggerated feminine look, hence the “queen.” There are also “drag kings” who dress as men, but this article focuses on drag queens. Many drag performers have dedicated personas attached to their looks, donning clever (and often sexual) names.
Because of drag’s roots in plays and performances, showmanship and drama are integral elements to the drag scene. Beyond the bold personas and flashy outfits, dramatic, amplified makeup is a staple in drag culture. Drag is a fun, colorful way to express and explore your identity!
The Start of Drag
Drag has been around for centuries. The word drag first appeared in 1388 from the Oxford English Dictionary. Drag balls, a competitive form of performance, date all the way back to 1867. Some trace the origin of “drag” to the theater, where male actors dressing as female characters would be “dragged” across the floor.
However, makeup has always been an integral part of drag. It reflects a mix of the performance aspect of drag, the personas of drag, and the pride of drag.
20th-Century Drag
Although the word “drag” can be traced back hundreds of years, the culture and traditions started to develop in the 20th century, especially within the queer community.
1920s: Post-War Fun and Smoky Makeup
Drag gained popularity in the 1920s. Post World War I, people sought out lively entertainment, including drag shows! Following the trends of the time, drag makeup in the 20s was heavy: dark, smoky eyes; sharp, thin brows; and red, pouty lips. The drag queen Barbette was an idol for this look, becoming a staple at the Moulin Rouge in Paris. Julian Eltinge was another famous actor and performer at the time.
To pay homage to queens of the past, some contemporary queens will meld the current, exaggerated style with Eltinge’s style.
1930s: The “Pansy Craze” and Dramatic Looks
The first half the 1930s followed the path of the 20s, with partying, sneaking alcohol during Prohibition, and enjoying queerness. This period was sometimes called “The Pansy Craze,” and a wave of conservatism and homophobia rose in reaction.
In protest, parties went harder, and makeup got stronger. More defined winged eyeliner emerged, alongside dark lipstick and heavy blush. This dramatic style was flashy and bold, making a visual statement.
Popular queens at the time were Jean Malin (“Queen of the Pansy Craze”), Karyl Norman, and Ray Bourbon.
1940s: World War II and the Pony Ballets
Though the drag scene still existed, it was diminished by the army draft and society’s conservatism and homophobia during wartime. There were even drag performances for soldiers called “pony ballets”. Soldiers would dress as ballerinas and dance across the stage, though the American government tried to deny any connection to drag.
The makeup ranged from bare-faced nothingness to overdrawn caricatures, painted with “rice powder and a black pencil“.
1950s: Cultural Fears and Blushing Cheeks
The 50s was chock-full of cultural fear, enforced by McCarthyism trials and Jim Crow laws. The documentary P.S. Burn This Letter Please foregrounded the drag scene of the 50s, conveying how it was simultaneously a time of fear and joy. Drag balls in Harlem and performances in queer bars like the Black Cat in San Francisco provided spaces for drag queens to continue their performances, firmly connecting them to gay spaces.
Makeup-wise, 50s drag mirrored the wider beauty trends of the time: blue eyeshadows, natural skin, pinky cheeks, and a frosty pink lip.
1960s: House Culture and Soft Eyes
The 1960s are famous for House Culture, a support system that grew out of ballroom culture. Crystal LaBeija, founder of the House of LeBeija, is credited with starting House Culture.
As pop culture flirted with politics, so did drag. Activist queen Sylvia Rivera was a participant in the Stonewall Riots and a formidable leader for trans and queer rights.
The makeup echoed the soft, dreamy, and feminine looks of the 60s, with thick winged eyeliner and fluffy eyelashes.
1970s: Found Family and Psychedelic Shimmers
House culture expanded in the 70s. The community structure was anchored in a House Mother and Father and typically supported Black and Latino queens.
By the 70s and 80s, drag makeup had dramatically shifted from years past. It took “passing” as a woman (in a glamorous way, of course) to an even bolder expression. Eyebrows were taller and pointier, no longer following the natural brow. With all the eyelid space, queens wore colorful eye looks, using white liner on the bottom to extend the eye.
The Cockettes, a colorful and glittery drag group based in San Francisco, were extremely influential for their flowy, psychedelic style.
1980s: Dark 80s, Colorful Looks
The AIDS crisis hit the queer community hard in the 80s, and drag queens like Marsha P. Johnson were crucial activists during this dark period. With little government aid and an overabundance of stigma, drag was an outlet for many in the queer community.
The style was characterized by vibrant, bold, and “freaky” looks. There was bold color, long lashes, and even goth-inspired faces, proving that color is the best way to counter darkness.
1990s & 2000s: The Jump from Counter- to Pop-Culture
The 1990s was a huge decade for the queer community. 1990 marked the release of the famous documentary Paris is Burning, which captured the ballroom culture in Harlem.
With the song “Supermodel” and newfound media popularity, RuPaul evolved into a household name in the 90s. His use of powder, highlighting under his eyes, and striking eye makeup set the tone for the decade.
2010s: Drag Race and Pushing the Limits
In 2009, the first season of RuPaul’s Drag Race aired. The show brought drag to the forefront of pop culture, resulting in trends, memes, and slang that have stuck with us to this day.
The show’s competition structure encourages creativity and individuality. Break-out stars like Trixie Mattel, Katya, and Bianca del Rio have cultivated their own takes on drag makeup. By the 2010s, drag makeup was the most dramatic it had every been.
With social media, drag queens can find their niches and styles, allowing drag to be even more personal and expressive than before.
Drag’s Influence Today
From dance culture (voguing) to slang (slay, tea, etc.), drag has made a plethora of cultural contributions. Drag grew even more popular with RuPaul’s Drag Race, giving platforms to drag queens across the country. This is especially true with makeup. Drag queens and makeup artists have popularized some of the best techniques in daily makeup routines.
Let’s take a look at the most transformative and viral techniques!
Sculpting Contour
Contouring uses shadow and light to sculpt the face, a technique that queens employs to emulate feminine features and bone structures. Kim Kardashian was known for her contouring in the 2010s, but the technique is rooted in drag makeup!
Baking
Baking is the process of pressing powder into the makeup, letting it sit on the skin, and allowing your body heat to “bake” the base. This powder layer lays the foundation for a long-lasting, durable face, enabling an energetic performance! It also reinforces the smoothness of the makeup, leaving you picture-perfect.
“2016” Eye Makeup
The 2016 eye makeup was iconic. Comprised of bold, multi-dimensional looks, the style drew from drag techniques to build a more wearable, yet still show-stopping, eye.
Drag makeup required a big canvas, meaning that as the looks got more extravagant, the eyebrows needed to go higher. Then, the eyes featured a variety of bold colors, dramatic shapes, and cut creases. These techniques yielded visible and interesting makeup for the stage, but colorful eye makeup became popular for non-queens as well through YouTube makeup tutorials. Topping it off with a fluffy fake lash (another stage staple), the 2016 eye look heralds a new stage of drag makeup.
Drag Isn’t Just for Show. Makeup is Political!
Drag is a way to explore and express yourself through makeup, fashion, and comedy. Makeup is a visual presentation to the world. It espouses confidence, personality, and individuality.
It is simultaneously a political act. The choice to follow or discard societal norms through makeup is inherently political. You may have heard of the “lipstick effect” (allegedly a “recession indicator”) or “Republican makeup” online — these are great examples of how economics, political beliefs, and personal expression impact makeup choices. Counterculture styles like punk, goth, and, yes, drag makeup all strive to push the boundaries of beauty norms.
It’s important to credit the trailblazing queens, especially as politics targets drag queens! Drag makeup is so much more than just performance. It is a statement of identity, talent, and Pride.
There’s so much more to drag than what I have covered so far, but I encourage you to dive into the history of these courageous icons! Think of the drag queens who fought for equality and the right to an authentic life. Remember how you, no matter your sexual or gender identity, can make a statement through your makeup. Happy Pride!
