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Does Balletcore Resemble Actual Ballet Fashion?

Everyone’s been wearing tutus and ribbons, but do ballet dancers actually dress like that? Here’s the inside knowledge from a former ballet dancer

Image showing ballet core fashion compared to ballet wear
Illustration by Aisha Ye/Trill.

When you hear the word ballet, what comes to mind? Pink tutus, satin ribbons, and dainty ballerina shoes? Dance has influenced the fashion world for many years. Even before balletcore, there was balletomania, which saw beribboned pumps, champagne colored leotards, and big bouncy tutus take their place on the runway. Here’s the problem: many of the balletcore trends aren’t hugely authentic.

For example, contrary to their name, ballerina shoes don’t actually emulate real ballet shoes in the slightest. Not only that, but many designer balletcore leotards resemble children’s beginner ballet uniforms rather than chic dance pieces!

This lack of ballet expertise has created a running joke in the dance community. There’s even a famous Instagram account called “Models Doing Ballet.” From horrendously tied shoe ribbons to leotards with low-cut leglines, the fashion world has, in many ways, done all of the things a dancer should never do.

How do I know? I’m a former dancer who trained full-time at The Central School of Ballet in London, and let me tell you, there are some issues with the balletcore trend.

Ballet is an art form. Dancers devote their whole lives to training and perfecting their skills, as do the pointe shoe makers and costume designers who create genuine dance wear. Unsurprisingly, some dancers can feel slightly cheesed off when designers take inspiration from ballet without learning about its significance or consulting those who’ve dedicated their lives to the art form.

While the balletcore trend may lack authenticity, it’s still easy to spot which ballet items were used as inspiration. If you’re looking for an insider view or wondering which items are genuine, wonder no longer. I’m here to give you the lowdown!

Balletcore on the runway: the items that made it

1) Designer tutus

Tutus have made quite a stir on the runway, with many brands embracing the pronounced, elegant look they bring. This year’s balletcore trend has seen tutus paired with baggy clothes and bright colours, mixing ballet with casual fashion. Although beautiful, I can say that these tutus have some authenticity issues.

First off, many designer tutus are quite thick. In fact, they often resemble cheaper children’s tutus rather than high-quality dance wear. Next, many of the brands that design balletcore tutus hire models with little to no dance experience. Understandably, this has resulted in quite the convo within the dance community. Just look at the comments section on an Instagram account like Models doing ballet!

Professional ballet tutus

On the other hand, professional ballet tutus are meticulously hand-made, costing hundreds to thousands of pounds. They’re carefully stored upside down on a tutu pole to hold their shape and are very thin.

If you’re looking for an example of a professional tutu and how it should be worn, look through the Youth American Grand Prix (YAGP) Instagram account!

2) Designer ballet flats

This year’s obsession with balletcore has seen top designers create ballet-themed flats. Unlike normal high street ballerinas, these items are designed to resemble ballet shoes (loosely). As a dancer though, I’ll let you in on something: fashion-branded ballerinas don’t resemble actual ballet flats as much as you’d think.

Professional ballet flats

Professional ballet flats are soft and usually made of stretch canvas, leather, or satin. Advanced dancers usually also have split sole shoes in order to show off the arch of their foot. The more it points (bends), the better! The dream is to have “banana feet” (feet that bend so much they look like, bananas!).

In contrast, high street ballerina shoes usually have a standard shoe sole and no elastic to hold them on. Although real ballet flats can be worn with ribbon, they commonly have crisscross elastic over the arch. Beginners use this type of shoe for the whole class, while more advanced dancers may alternate between flats and pointe shoes (the ones that allow dancers to go on their toes).

3) Designer pointe shoes

Pointe shoes are perhaps one of the most well-recognised ballet items. Unsurprisingly, as part of this year’s balletcore trend, designers have caught on, hoping to add a unique balletic touch to their work. From traditional pink to midnight black, designer pointe shoes have come in a wide variety of styles. I do wish that designers had consulted professional dancers though, because no matter how stylish these shoes are, they couldn’t be further from the real thing.

For example, one of the biggest pointe shoe no-nos is tying the ribbon in a bow halfway up your calf. Trust me, it’s not a good idea. The ribbons are meant to help hold the shoe on while jumping, turning, and running. Any ribbons tied halfway up the calf would slip down almost immediately and cause a bit of a scene. Honestly, it wouldn’t be the best look!

Ballet shoes don’t come with ribbons, as each dancer painstakingly sews them on to meet their requirements. It’s complicated. The angle has to be just right, and the ribbons must be tied in a double knot on the inside of the ankle (never halfway up the leg)!

Dancers also have to cut their ribbons to just the right length and carefully tuck them in so that the ends don’t show. Some dancers even hairspray their ribbons like that so that they don’t slip.

Professional pointe shoes

Pointe shoes are the dream for every young female ballerina! Contrary to common belief, they’re not something that a dancer can buy easily. Girls must wait until they have sufficient strength and technique before they can buy their first pair. Even after going on pointe, finding the perfect shoe can take years!

Pointe shoes are carefully handmade by elite professionals. It’s a serious job! They must meet particular specifications and balance perfectly. Once a dancer finds their pointe shoe and maker, she may stick with them for her entire career.

4) Designer ballet leotards

This year’s balletcore trend has seen many brands recreate the dancer look. One big part of that has been the resurgence of leotards. It might be obvious, but ballet dancers don’t spend all day training in their elaborate costumes. Instead, they wear leotards, tights, and whatever other accessories they can find.

The ballet leotard concept is accurate. However, the balletcore designer leotards have raised a few eyebrows in the dance community. Real ballet leotards are modest at the back but usually sit above the hip bones at the front, as dancers want to show the line of their legs.

A dead giveaway that someone’s a beginner or a model is seeing them pull the legs down to look more like shorts. The problem with many of the balletcore leotards is that they’ve been designed to sit on or below the hip bone, shortening the line of the model’s legs.

Professional ballet leotards

Ballet leotards are a huge part of a dancer’s wardrobe. After all, it’s what they wear every day, all day long! Ballet leotards come in all shapes and patterns. From elaborate long-sleeve, stretch mesh leotards to pieces with zippers down the front, dancers use leotards to express their style.

There are also many simple leotard designs. Pieces with a small rouche at the front are especially popular these days. However, excluding the cheap beginner’s leotards, they’re usually shaped or have some extra details (unlike their designer counterparts).

The real (and little-known) clothing that dancers actually wear

The truth is, genuine ballet fashion is a bit off the wall, but that’s what makes it special. Dancers wear stripey leg warmers, floral skirts, and all manner of mismatched outfits. It’s fun!

Dancers also style all kinds of crazy costumes to class on special occasions like Christmas or Halloween. I remember that when I was at ballet school, for the last class before Christmas, I would wrap myself up in tinsel and wear crazy socks underneath my shoes. Other classmates would even wear blow-up costumes!

@scottishballet Company class: #Halloween edition 🎃 #ballet #dance #barre #pointeshoes ♬ original sound – ScottishBallet

Dancers are incredibly hardworking, but they’re also fun and enjoy keeping up with all the latest ballet trends. Perhaps some people assume that dancers come in pink, well-matched outfits every day, but honestly, that couldn’t be further from the truth. If you don’t believe me, watch a company class!

Here’s an example outfit that a female professional dancer could wear to class: a leotard with tights over the top, a floral skirt, a super baggy T-shirt, warm-up boots, and stripey leg warmers. I know right? What a combo!

Balletcore is a great trend, but as you can probably see by now, it doesn’t resemble actual ballet fashion a whole lot. There’s so much more to ballet than wearing pink clothing and looking pretty. It’s a whole community, lifestyle, and art form.

If you’re wondering more about what’s behind the curtain, wonder no longer! Leave your most burning ballet questions in the comments!

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I am a London based freelance writer and final year journalism student with a strong desire to tell stories, expose injustice and promote EDI.

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