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Paris Fashion Week S/S 26:The New Shape of Elegance

The week we have all been waiting for is here as Paris Fashion Week gears up for days of luxury, opulence, and mastery!

Fashion Week
Illustration by Angelina Valadez/Trill

The final destination of the Spring 2026 Fashion Month tour is none other than Paris, France. As the newest spring collections unfold, Parisian melodies fold and stitch the week together. Paris is truly the consolidator of fashion and identities, as designers from all over the world demonstrate the spirit of Fashion Week. As the heart and soul of couture, Paris holds more than just love as creativity and mastery flourish.

This season is the debut season, as many houses will feature debut collections from newly appointed creative directors. We will see Jonathan Anderson’s first women’s ready-to-wear at Dior, Miguel Castro Freitas for Mugler, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez for Loewe, Pierpaolo Piccioli for Balenciaga, Duran Lantink for Jean Paul Gaultier, and Matthieu Blazy for Chanel. With much to anticipate, showrooms fill, and runways are set as the city blooms with energy.

Saint Laurent

Anthony Vaccarello is back for another Fashion Week as he takes Saint Laurent to a whole new level. This season, Saint Laurent opened Paris Fashion Week with a show that stunned and redefined Parisian glamour. Marking Vaccarello’s 30th show, he leaned into a cinematic minimalism that felt both timeless and radical.

As the night sky set, the Eiffel Tower glimmered in the background as the runway unfolded at its feet. A vast French garden stands at the foot, as it pulses with moonlit spirit. Under the dim light, the brand reveals a masterclass in silhouette and femininity. The garden is arranged into the shape of the Cassandre logo, framing the house’s legacy within the runway. Lining the garden, pluming white hydrangeas with petals dancing along the stem as each path seems choreographed to echo the drama above.

As dusk appeared, Place Jacques Rueff unfolded into a runway, while the guests settled into the romantic garden of Saint Laurent. Vaccarello emphasized simplicity and emotional clarity, describing the collection as “clean, with no embellishments.” In a subtle rejection of commercialism, the show featured no handbags as a deliberate move to prioritize artistry over merchandising.

Paris Fashion Week

The collection blends tough silhouettes with fragile forms as sharp-cut leather jackets are paired with edgy pencil skirts, while leather blousons add definition. Leather serves as armor as it wraps around the body in slick trench coats and razor-sharp tailoring. Dominance exudes from the collection as Vaccarello nods to 1980s power dressing by amplifying the inverted triangle silhouette. Classic textiles were deliberately aged, lending a sense of lived-in luxury.

Translucent trench coats of thin nylon and safari dresses draped fluidly against the body. Cotton poplin blouses adorned with dramatic bows dragging against the body add a sense of theatrical softness. Fabrics with faint opacity and sheerness reveal the femininity and provocative sensuality of the collection. As an homage to vintage Saint Laurent, tough urban silhouettes echoed the leather-clad figures of the ’80s, inspired by Saint Laurent’s classic couture looks.

Soon enough, evening wear takes over as a heightened sense of drama fills the room and captivates the crowd. Billowing Belle Époque-inspired gowns grace the runway as dramatic puffed sleeves and ruffled volume spread throughout the designs. The exaggerated jabot ruffles pull in a sense of romanticism as the fabric, structured yet light, frames the chest and neckline. Furthermore, dramatic statement necklaces pull the designs together, adding flair to each design. As subtle pleating falls into dramatic volumes, cuffs and yokes add a whisper of Edwardian flair.

Mugler

Everyone can remember the Mugler moments of the millennium that shattered the internet and continue to amaze us for generations. Think of Pat Cleveland swirling in a crimson flamenco gown during the 1984 “The Chimera” show. Or the unforgettable 1995 motorcycle corset worn by model Emma Sjöberg, complete with chrome handlebars and leather fringe. These weren’t just garments; they were sculptural provocations, merging fashion with futurism, eroticism, and myth. Mugler’s legacy lives in these archival spectacles. A space where the runway became a stage for transformation, and each look etched itself into fashion’s collective memory.

Mugler continues to defy any expectations as the house continues to rewrite the rules of spectacle. This season, Mugler is back again at an underground car park in Paris’s 11th arrondissement, where newly appointed Creative Director, Miguel Castro Frietas, unveils his debut collection. Frietas previously worked for Dior after being hand-selected by John Galliano himself. He has also worked at Yves Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, and was previously the creative director for Sportmax before joining Mugler.

“Stardust Aphrodite” – Paris Fashion Week

The raw, empty concrete background amplifies the shadowed atmosphere as all movement, color, and light fall onto the collection. Blurred silhouettes emerged from the dark atmosphere as light illuminated each design. Models emerge like apparitions as each design slices through the gloom with kinetic precision. Frietas channels Mugler’s legacy not through replication, but through resurrection as sculptural tailoring meets industrial edge. As latex, mesh, and metallic lamé blend into one collection, the designs refract through a lens of contemporary rebellion.

Sculptural silhouettes are back for Mugler as the house’s signature hourglass silhouette blends definition and sharp lines. Muted tones appear first as soft camel and creamy beige blend into the skin. Sculpted waists with definitive and broad shoulders emphasize drama while highlighting the delicacy of the female form. Nude bodystockings lay over vinyl skirts and dress pants with padded waistbands, creating a layered tension between vulnerability and armor. The interplay of translucence and gloss evokes a futuristic sensuality, where the body is both revealed and reframed.

It would not be a Mugler show without dramatic silhouettes and intense embellishment as Frietas brings the past back to us. Accordingly, many looks mimic the archival Mugler looks as feather-laden coats, jackets, and punctuated skirts float down the runway. Exaggerated jeweled bodices mimic chandeliers as striking leather dresses deepen the collection, while sharp rosettes sit atop the rough silhouette.

Schiaparelli

This season, Daniel Roseberry blends art and fashion in a more literal sense as the show takes place at Centre Pompidou. The show will precede the gallery’s five-year renovation closure, marking one of the last events for the gallery for years. In doing so, Roseberry centers the collection on the relationship between fashion and art. Of course, Schiaparelli is a house known for merging art and fashion in ways that defy logic and embrace the surreal. This season’s women’s ready-to-wear collection is no exception as Schiaparelli continues to blur the line between surrealism and sartorial precision.

This season, Schiaparelli’s show mimics the feelings of walking through a museum, marking an experience of inspiration and reassuring stillness. An experience that is joyful, liberating, yet private and sensual. The show walks through that feeling as Roseberry reflects on museum visits as an eclipsed cultural ritual. The show, titled Dancer in the Dark, brings us to a space where fashion becomes an art and memory, where each garment is less a look and more a relic of emotion.

Roseberry approached this season with the idea of “extreme wearability” that blends the art of garments with the classic Schiaparelli drama. Unfortunately, gold hardware and hourglass corsets were less apparent in this collection as free-flowing fabrics and silhouettes breathe a new life. Models gently grace the runway, light and quiet as sensation seeps through the room, inviting each look to take in more than just a first glance.

Paris Fashion Week

This season, Schiaparelli is defined by sculpted clean lines, precision tailoring, and punctuating details. Oversized holes, pebble-shaped pockets, and curved waistbands break up the sleek fabric as leather shirts, knit tube dresses, and slim ankle-length skirts reveal flashes of skin in unexpected places, creating a rhythm of concealment and exposure. These voids echo the surrealist impulse to distort and reframe the human form. Necklines scrunch on blouses while sculpted fingers protrude from handbags and clutches, grasping against your hand.

As previously mentioned, the signature gold motif was dialed back; however, we saw the dazzling color savored for a few statement pieces. For one, gold paintbrushes layer against the body while lacquered egg-shell shaped hats lie atop the lead, unexpectedly awkward yet fitting. Nose jewels and chain straps against satin panels added the signature gold while elevating simple frames.

The accessories remained a simplified version of the Schiaparelli we know, as a new padlock handbag hung around the hand, while slightly chunky gold jewelry dangled from the neck, arms, and ears. The body becomes the framework for simple silhouettes, with hourglass corsets missing, as the brand looks towards its roots. A white chalk scribble plays on top of a simple black dress, as the Schiaparelli girl becomes the life that bridges art and fashion. Roseberry reimagines the iconic 1938 Schiaparelli Tears Dress, created by Salvador Dali as frayed silk crepe panels, tear-away jersey, and mousseline to reveal the flesh.

Chanel

Chanel’s Spring 2026 show unfolds beneath the gleaming glass dome of the recently renovated Grand Palais. The venue transforms under the sky into a celestial planetarium as the dark of the night and stars cover the runway. Orbs float above a glossy, marbled black runway that screams sleek sophistication as many anticipate for the new season’s collection. The atmosphere is charged with quiet grandeur—less theatrical than past seasons, yet deeply immersive.

This season is especially exciting as it marks the debut of Matthieu Blazy at Chanel after recently replacing Virginie Viard as Creative Director in June. While Viard had a rather unique exploration during her time at Chanel, her designs remained questionable as they lacked the Chanel sophistication. Now, Mattheie Blazy is taking us into a new era for the house as he defines a new Chanel. This season’s show reflects an intimate cosmic rebirth of the maison as Blazy hosts a spectacle of what is to come.

A checked wool pantsuit with a strikingly sharply cropped jacket opens the show as it becomes reminiscent of founder Gabrielle Chanel’s tendency to blend menswear and women’s wear. Oversized tuxedo shirts and striped menswear stables are reworked for the female body. Each piece exudes the feminine power suit that commands power and respect. The traditional Chanel tweed makes an appearance as per usual; however, this season, it strays from traditional Chanel tweed. Tweed transforms into sheer, low-slung silhouettes, adding a new idea to the classic heavy and sophisticated motif.

“Reaching for the Stars” – Paris Fashion Week

Cropped blazers with sharp and defined shoulders lie against the body as silky knee-length skirts hang against the waist. Feathered embellishments along with floral appliques lighten each look, exuding grace and femininity. Moreover, Blazy pairs a cropped striped men’s shirt with a voluminous scarlet ballgown. Dramatic scarlet feather embellishments protrude at every end, adding texture and life. With each move, the dress mimicked as the texture bounces along, adding a dramatic flair to the collection.

Notably, a black sheer organza dress floats delicately along the runway with laser-cut leather camellia appliques lying across it. At the bottom, a billowing orb of fabric moves with the feet while silver thread mimics constellations. The transparency opens up the delicacy of the silhouette as the fabric dances along with elegance and grace. An ivory gown captures eyes as bright floral appliques contrast with the sleek white. Accessories remained subversive as the classic Chanel flap bag hung within the hand while jewelry morphed into planetary forms. Orb-like earrings and delicate cosmic brooches echo the celestial intimacy of the collection. Blazy’s Chanel is clear; it’s a house of resonance and irrevocable reinvention of power.

As the final week of Fashion Month comes to an end, we bid adieu to the whirlwind of runway revelations while still remembering everything it holds. We held moments of awe, artistry, and audacity with each day and each collection. From Paris to Milan, New York to London, each city offered its own rhythm, its own mythology, and its own vision of what fashion can be. Until next year, when we visit these cities once again for the next season.

Written By

I am a second-year student at the University of San Francisco with a major in English and minor in Business..

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