Nowadays, the cosmetic industry has made procedures of all kinds increasingly advanced, but salmon sperm facial injections may not be something you’d expect to see among recent skincare trends. The treatment, which uses DNA extracted from salmon, has recently gone viral as beauty enthusiasts search for the next breakthrough in anti-aging.
The skincare industry is an ever-changing one, as there’s always a new product on the market claiming to fix all your skin problems.
But could PDRN skincare be the next big breakthrough in facial rejuvenation research and markets – or is it simply another money grabber?
What is PDRN skincare?
PDRN, technically known as polydeoxyribonucleotide, is one of the most talked-about ingredients in skincare products and treatments right now. Derived from salmon sperm DNA, PDRN promotes skin regeneration, boosts collagen and elastin production, and strengthens the skin barrier. What started off as a use for wound repair has turned into a new anti-aging skincare treatment.
“Studies indicate that salmon sperm are the most suitable source for the extraction of highly purified DNA without the risk of impurities due to their low levels of proteins, peptides, and other contaminants compared to other DNA sources,” said Dermatologist Melda Issac, MD, in an interview with Cosmopolitan.
Because salmon DNA resembles human DNA in structure and weight, it is biocompatible with skin cells. Research from a Pharmacological Activity and Clinical Use study shows that the DNA is derived from a controlled purification and sterilization process. This eliminates active protein and peptides that may cause immune reactions. However, this research and development has been around for a while – just not in the United States.
South Korea has long been a global leader in skincare research and development. Previously rooted in herbal medicine derived from natural botanicals, Korean skincare now blends modern science with those traditional methods. This approach gives other global markets access to products with ingredients you may not see in American-manufactured ones.
Researchers and cosmetic developers in South Korea first introduced this innovative ingredient as ‘skin boosters’ around 2008. PDRN made its way from South Korea to the United States through the evolution of K-beauty and the ‘glass skin’ beauty trend. Although it started as injectable in Korea, it’s most accessible in the United States through topical products.
Topical vs injectable
Topical
You may have seen the Kardashian ads with Medicube, a Korean skincare brand that helped popularize PDRN products in the United States. This is an example of PDRN topical treatments. You can find these products in serums, face masks, and moisturizers
@kyliejenner current favorite glass skin routine 💓 #medicube #medicubepartner @medicube global ♬ original sound – Kylie Jenner
“Serums are designed for daily use and long-term maintenance, while masks provide an immediate boost since they are left on the skin longer, allowing ingredients to soak in,” explained Dr. Issac in an interview with Cosmopolitan.
Topical treatments, like products from Medicube and Biodance, are the most accessible to the average skincare consumer. Companies legally sell these products in the United States, though the FDA hasn’t approved them. This doesn’t necessarily mean they’re unsafe.
The FDA treats topical versions of these products as cosmetics and therefore does not require pre-market approval. South Korea enforces different food and drug regulations, resulting in skincare products with ingredients and formulas unlike those made in the U.S. Many skincare professionals consider topical PDRN products safe to use, even without approval from the FDA. While they can’t penetrate the skin as deeply as injectables, they may still provide benefits like hydration, an improved skin barrier, and mild smoothing.
Injectable
Clinics offer Injectable PDRN treatments as luxury cosmetic procedures that range from $300 to $800+. However, you may see the best results with these.
As with any injectable, these treatments distribute the ingredients, in this case PDRN, directly to the dermis (skin). This allows deeper penetration into the skin, leading to better results. Providers often promote injectable PDRN to reduce pore size and fine lines, enhance skin elasticity and collagen production, and rejuvenate the skin.
South Korea most commonly uses Rejuran Healing Essence as their top PDRN injectable. According to a study from the Korea Institute of Dermatological Sciences, this specific injectable did in fact increase skin elasticity, reduce deep wrinkles, pigmentation recovery, dermal density, and skin texture.
Because it’s a professional-grade treatment, it’s a lot stronger than a topical product you pick up from Ulta. The deep injections allow for a quicker, more dramatic result.
Similar to topical products, injectable PDRN is also not FDA approved. Although it has proven to be effective in skin rejuvenation and regeneration.
Ethics of salmon DNA
Because manufacturers source PDRN from salmon DNA, consumers may question the ethics of using it.
According to the Pharmacological Activity and Clinical Use study, PDRN is extracted and purified at a high temperature. Manufacturers produce commercial PDRN using reproductive tissue sourced from farmed fish at aquaculture facilities rather than from wild-caught salmon.
However, because the process relies on aquaculture, concerns surrounding animal welfare have been raised. In response, growing prioritization of vegan and cruelty-free standards in the beauty industry has driven demand for plant-based alternatives.
Which PDRN version is best for you?
Topical PDRN products serve best to individuals with:
- Sensitive and irritated skin: Reduces redness, damaged skin barrier, and irritation.
- Concerns about aging: More of a preventative measure for fine lines and wrinkles.
- All skin types: Generally safe for acne-prone or dry skin, as PDRN can increase hydration.
Injectable PDRN treatments serve best to individuals who want:
- Immediate results: As discussed previously, direct contact with the skin brings quicker results.
- Deep rejuvenation: Recommended for pronounced wrinkles and loss of collagen.
- Advanced Anti-Aging: Best for older patients to reverse ‘sagging’ and aging.
One of the biggest benefits that sets PDRN apart from other skincare ingredients is collagen production. Collagen is the most abundant structural protein in the human body. It’s the glue that provides that elasticity we talked about, keeping the skin plump and firm.
A common misconception is that our skin can topically absorb collagen. However, collagen molecules are too large for the skin’s surface to absorb. With that said, certain PDRN face masks that have collagen in them aren’t going to enhance your collagen production. Yes, they’ll hydrate and make your skin glow, but they won’t have a long-term effect on anti-aging. So, if you’re someone who isn’t looking for anti-aging properties, topical PDRN products are the way to go. They’ll provide you with the glow and hydration that’s so appealing about “glass skin.”
On the other hand, when collagen is injected into the skin – whether in a PDRN treatment or another – your body absorbs it. This treatment is another reason why injectable PDRN may suit you if you’re looking for more anti-aging properties.
Final thoughts
It’s important to recognize that these benefits happen over time. Injectable PDRN may give you quicker results, but the effects are gradual and cumulative.
As with any skincare trend, results can vary depending on factors like age, skin type, lifestyle, and overall skin health. While early studies and clinical use suggest promising regenerative effects, more long-term research is still needed to fully understand the extent of PDRN’s benefits and limitations.
Still, the rapid rise of salmon DNA in skincare highlights a larger shift in the beauty industry toward treatments that focus on anti-aging rather than blemishes.
Whether PDRN becomes a lasting innovation or eventually fades like many viral beauty trends before it, its popularity reflects how far cosmetic science has evolved – and how eager consumers are to try the next breakthrough promising healthier, more youthful skin.
