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Avoiding A Hairy Situation: How To Get Your Best Haircut

With guidance from a professional hair stylist on terminology, hair-types and face shapes, this is everything you need to know to get your best hair cut.

Woman at salon getting a haircut
Illustration by Chelsey Myers/Trill

Tears well in your eyes as you stare at the hairdresser in the salon mirror and lie through an oversized smile, “I love it.” What went wrong? Was it the picture? The description? Are you doomed to find a haircut that you will never love and will never suit you?

A mistake only a hat can fix

A good haircut can’t do all the work. One of the biggest mistakes you can make when getting a haircut is not considering how the desired look will need to be maintained and styled.

Stanimir Hristov, salon owner and senior stylist at Your Hairdresser, points out that “in the salon, the hair is not only cut, but also styled properly to achieve the desired look.” You can’t expect your hair to look like it did in the salon every time you wash it.

So, you’ve got to be honest with yourself. Am I going to style and maintain this hair (almost) every day? If you’re someone who likes to get up, run a brush through your hair, and leave – ask for something low-key. If you hate washing, blow-drying, and styling your hair – maybe don’t ask for bangs.

“If the correct type of styling is not used at home,” Stanimir warns, “the salon-sleek appearance of the cut will not be preserved.”

What’s what?

An image in your mind is fine until you need to actually describe it to a hairdresser. “Just a little off here” and a “like steps in the hair”, “layers”, “a trim”, just spurting out words, terms, and similies hoping to telepathically transport the dream look.

You often learn the hard way that some words don’t mean what you thought they did.

Stanimir Hristov acknowledges that (often) the terms “length”, “layers”, and “graduation” are used interchangeably by clients. But they all mean totally different things.

As expected, length is how long or short the hair is. However, “layers,” Stanimir explains, “are shorter pieces of the hair strategically cut to create the effect of enhanced volume and movement.”

In contrast, graduation refers to the overall transition from longer to shorter or shorter to longer.

@emchenhair

GRADUATION vs LAYERING: Do you know the difference and WHY it’s important? ⁣ ⁣ Here’s a little clip from my one-on-one with @sadie_strands last week. ⁣ ⁣ Imagine having an “equator” that runs around the widest part of your head (this would be the “ridge” or the “round” of the head on the sides & the occipital on the back). ⁣ ⁣ 𝘐𝘍 𝘠𝘖𝘜 𝘚𝘕𝘐𝘗 𝘈𝘕𝘠 𝘏𝘈𝘐𝘙𝘚 𝘽𝙀𝙇𝙊𝙒 𝘛𝘏𝘈𝘛 𝘓𝘐𝘕𝘌, ⁣ you’re “graduating”. It doesn’t matter how long or short the hair is, that’s just simply where graduation lives because the hair growing from that area just DROPS from the head. There is little movement coming from those strands. They’re pretty stationary. That’s why a “stacked bob” *stacks*. That’s also why if you accidentally “layer” in the graduation zone on a long haircut, you might get this floating shelf that’s impossible to blend away. ⁣ ⁣ 𝘐𝘍 𝘠𝘖𝘜 𝘚𝘕𝘐𝘗 𝘈𝘕𝘠 𝘏𝘈𝘐𝘙𝘚 𝘼𝘽𝙊𝙑𝙀 𝘛𝘏𝘈𝘛 𝘓𝘐𝘕𝘌, ⁣ you’re “layering”. That’s simply where layers live. Hairs that grow out of this zone LAY on the head for a moment before it rolls off the edge and THEN drops. This gives the hair in this zone LOTS of movement. ⁣ ⁣ 𝗛𝗼𝘄 𝘁𝗵𝗶𝘀 𝗮𝗽𝗽𝗹𝗶𝗲𝘀 𝘁𝗼 𝗿𝗲𝗮𝗹 𝗹𝗶𝗳𝗲 𝗰𝘂𝘁𝘁𝗶𝗻𝗴:⁣ ⁣ For med-long hair, or blunt bobs, I usually avoid snipping anything in the graduation zone. If the perimeter feels heavy, I’ll go in & point cut or carve out internal weight, but do so without changing the external shape to avoid unintentional graduation & a little shelfy-shelf. This doesn’t mean you can’t graduate long hair – example, a “hushcut” is a graduated long haircut. Just understand the WHY before breaking any “rules”. ⁣ ⁣ If I’m 𝘢𝘤𝘵𝘶𝘢𝘭𝘭𝘺 graduating, it’s usually on short hair – cropped bobs, pixies, bixies, etc, as it moves weight around in all the best ways. ⁣ ⁣ Also, shoutout to one of my favorite mentors Elan McDowell @studioelanct who originally taught me the concept of “graduation zones vs layering zones” back in 2012. I remember this actually blowing my mind & I’ve continued to pay it forward ever since 💕⁣

♬ original sound – Emily Chen

Other common terms (that might be useful to know) can include: texturizing, feathering, blunt cut, and blending.

Texturizing, for example, refers to thinning out hair to reduce weight but maintaining length. Useful for thicker hair. While feathering softens the lines in the haircut, in contrast to choppy layers.

And, now popular haircut styles (that you may or may not have heard of on the internet)

A shag haircut features choppy layers with bangs, which can be customized to taste.

Wolfcuts (a more modern hairstyle) is a mixture between a mullet and shag with short choppy layers, where the hair at the top and crown is cut shorter, and the bottom is left longer. It’s popular among many celebrities, including Jenna Ortega and Miley Cyrus.

Can’t decide between two styles? Why not try a bixie? The lovechild of a bob and pixie, it’s slightly longer than a pixie with choppy layers, and short face-framing hair at the front.

To picture or not to picture?

It can be hard to describe the type of style you want – especially if you don’t know all the terms. So, do you bring in a screenshot from Pinterest?

“Bringing pictures for inspiration can be quite helpful and give a visual guide for what the client is looking to achieve,” Stanimir guides, “but sometimes they can be more of a pain point – especially if the expectations are unrealistic.”

Face structure, hair type, and texture – all these impact how the cut looks, so you can’t always expect to look exactly like your picture. It may be useful to inquire about what would work best for your hair type and face structure. By working together, you can figure out the best look for you.

If you are someone who prefers a visual aid, you can search hair inspo online using many professional hair-dressing sites. You can also search via hair texture, type, and face shape.

While you’re doing research, you may come across trending or popular haircuts, displayed by the hottest celebrities and influencers. Should you bite the bullet and jump on the bandwagon?

“If a trending haircut genuinely suits the given client,” Stanimir states, “then I’m all for it.

“But if it doesn’t and the client wants it because it’s the new hype, I would advise against it to prevent disappointment.”​

A haircut won’t magically make you look like someone else. A good haircut will amplify your best features. A good haircut makes you look like the best you.

“Just because something is popular doesn’t mean it will suit everyone -haircuts are not a one-size-fits-all approach.”

Stanimir Hristov

Consider this

You need to consider more than just style and length when you get a haircut. Believe it or not, a lot more goes into achieving that dream look.

“Styles can vary greatly between curly, straight, fine and thick hair due to the differences in textures, volume and moisture levels,” Stanimir explains, “for example, cuts like sharp layers and blunt bobs work well for straight hair…while curly hair generally benefits from layered cuts that complement their natural curl pattern and prevent the dreaded triangle shape (where the bottom of the hair is a lot wider than the top).”

@alexandra.sarubbi

what to ask for at the hair salon if you have fine or thin hair! #haircut #finehair #finehairstyles

♬ original sound – alexandra.sarubbi

Face shape and haircuts also influence each other due to propositions. People with oblong face shapes, for example, may prefer fringes as they can shorten the face.

You should also consider face shape, as it can affect how haircuts look due to proportions.

SPEAK UP!

Be clear about what you want. Tell your hairdresser. They want you to love your haircut just as much as you. Now, don’t get me wrong, they will have professional knowledge and understanding of hair behavior, but if you ask, maybe you can work together to find exactly what you want. If you want to go shorter – say that. If you want more layers – ask. A haircut is a two-way relationship. Unless you’re doing it yourself, but that’s rarely recommended.

Speaking with your hairdresser is the best way to get what you want. Ask what they’d recommend, say what you would prefer. Share your daily hair routine (and even lifestyle), to ensure you can get a haircut that works for everyday – not just for leaving the salon.

For example, if you know you are someone who likes to do very little with your hair, share that. Your hairstylist can recommend low-maintenance haircuts suited to you, such as a pixie crop or a blunt cut.

At the end of the day, you can read thousands of articles, save a dozen pictures, look at celebs, and ask about your hair and face type – but in the end, what truly matters is how you feel. The right haircut will make you feel good. The right haircut will represent you. And, if you hate it, don’t worry, it’s not forever.

Written By

I'm Jess Thompson, a third-year journalism student from the University of Sunderland. I enjoy writing about books, films, music and people I admire - but most of all I especially enjoy making an unnecessary amount of playlists.

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