“We’re not gonna make it.”This message from my mother flashed across my phone screen a week before I was to meet her in Split, Croatia. I was 3/4 of the way done with a semester of study in England and excited to see a familiar face from home. The engine on her plane had failed somewhere over Northern Canada and had to turn back around. I considered my options and drafted a reply: “Would you be mad if I still went?”
At this point, I was no stranger to traveling solo. I had ventured to Iceland, Wales, England, Scotland, the Netherlands, and Czechia by myself and had incredible times. Exploring a city alone sounds like a drag, but it’s all about what you make of it and how you spend your time. An independent trip to a new city can be enlightening and exciting. It allows you to explore at your leisure and mold your trip into a personal, curated experience.
Arrival: Saying “Zdravo” to Split
Split is a beautifully unique city, perched right on the coast of the Adriatic Sea. With so much architecture to admire, history to discover, and Dalmatian delicacies to try, I knew I’d never have a dull moment there.
Arriving in sunny Croatia after spending three months in Southwestern England felt like that first nice day of spring after a long winter. The moment I stepped outside the Split airport, I shed my winter jacket and happily shoved it to the bottom of my bag. I hailed a taxi and set off down the highway and into town. After dropping off my luggage at my Airbnb, which was just steps away from the Riva Promenade, I laced up my comfiest sneakers and started walking.
I spent the evening strolling on the Riva, exploring the Old Town, and greeting the plethora of stray cats living there. Split is one of those cities that feels chaotic and relaxed simultaneously.
Even amid the chaos of tourists gathering in the most popular spots, one never feels like they are being rushed. It’s as if the city wants you to take your time and inspect every little nook and cranny in your own time.
Though my walk around the city was peaceful, I remained aware of my surroundings. If you’re alone, especially in a foreign country, make sure you are vigilant and aware of things happening around you. Split is a fairly safe city, but it’s a great idea to learn how to protect yourself in case something should happen.
Day 1: Urban Hiking and Adriatic Delights
If there’s one thing I love about Europe, it’s the walkable cities. Being able to explore on foot is something I look for every time I plan a trip somewhere. Renting a car can be a hassle, especially in a foreign country. I always like to choose my vacation destinations based on how pedestrian-friendly they are. This way, I know that I can find my way around easily, especially if I’m on a solo trip.
I started my day at a cozy breakfast joint just outside the walls of Diocletian’s Palace. Sitting in a sunny courtyard and people-watching made for a peaceful start to a busy day.
After spending time exploring the Northern end of the Riva Promenade, I found myself on a bit of a climb. Along with a few other tourists, I sauntered up dozens of flights of stairs until I found myself overlooking the city. I had conquered the hike up to the Telegrin Peak, one of the most popular photo ops in the city.
I wandered around the lookout, exploring the old Jewish cemetery and the little forest surrounding it. Making my way back down, I was given an incredible perspective of the city and took dozens of photos of the beautiful homes resting against the hill. I ended up walking about four miles that day and got one hell of a sunburn. (Remember to bring or buy sunscreen!)
My first full day in Split ended with a lovely dinner at the Adriatic Sushi and Oyster Bar. Located within Diocletian’s palace, this eatery offers fresh seafood straight from the sea. I had never had oysters before, and, thanks to Adriatic Sushi, I wasn’t disappointed in the slightest.
Day 2: Stepping into a Fictional World (In Real Life!)
Before I visited Split, I knew very little about Game of Thrones. Several people had recommended it to me before, but I never got around to watching it. Now that I’ve seen it, I’ve recognized various filming locations I unknowingly visited in the photos I took. Visiting this beautiful, historic city inspired me to finally watch the series and appreciate the fantastical filming locations they chose.
My second day in Split was spent exploring Diocletian’s Palace, the Roman fortress covering half of the city’s Old Town. This impressive architectural feat was constructed in the 4th century AD as a vacation residence for the Roman emperor Diocletian.
While wandering the grounds around St. Dominus’ Cathedral, I passed several Game of Thrones-themed gift shops and groups on tours of filming locations. The show’s most recognizable scenes of Split are set in the fictional city of Meereen, which Daenerys Targaryen conquers halfway through season 3.
The most popular filming location in Diocletian’s Palace lies beneath the main level in the basements, where Daenerys’ dragons are kept. I witnessed many tourists flocking into the lower levels, shouting, “This is where they kept the dragons!”
Besides being made famous by an HBO series, Diocletian’s Palace is rich with Roman history. It was originally constructed in preparation for Diocletian’s retirement (which is something I think we should all get when we retire).
The structure is less of a “palace” and more of a fortress, containing historical monuments, restaurants, mini cathedrals, and shops of all kinds. Artisan shops, local boutiques, and charming restaurants line every street in the city, calling out to tourists and residents alike.
Day 3: Diving into Split’s Local Beach Scene
Though the weather was a little cooler while I was there, Split’s beaches are great for more than just swimming. In the morning, I walked from my Airbnb to Bacvice Beach, which only took me about fifteen minutes. There’s no better way to enjoy Spring in Croatia than with a coastal stroll and a cold drink.
I walked for about a mile down the beach from Bacvice down to the Concrete Beach. A few swimmers braved the chilly water while I stayed warm on the shore. Sunbathing and journaling with a Corona is nothing short of a perfect Spring day.
The beaches in Split are as beautiful as they are accessible. Every day, tourists and locals of all ages flocked to the shore to stake out a spot for the day. Younger groups blast music from an unseen speaker and chain-smoke in the shade. Children enjoy the water while their parents watch them from their towels.
After making my way back into town, I sat down for a quiet dinner at Uje Oil Bar. Their homemade hummus and grilled salmon paired wonderfully with a glass of white wine (which I don’t know the name of because I’m not a wine expert). Before heading back to my flat, I sat in the square outside St. Dominus’ Cathedral to enjoy some live music. It was my last night in Split, and I wasn’t sure that I was ready to leave yet.
Departure: Last Morning in Split
Though I was missing England (as dreary as it was in late April), I would miss Split even more. I had never seen such a uniquely beautiful city and had the privilege to spend so much time exploring it.
After a latte in the courtyard cafe near my Airbnb, I called an Uber to take me to the airport. (My Uber was a huge black SUV, and it felt like a hearse leading my funeral procession on my journey back to England.)
Croatia is a great country to start in if you’re looking to venture into the Balkans for an Eastern European vacation. And if you find yourself in Split, enjoy every minute in this deeply historic and vibrant city. You won’t want to miss a thing.
Jeff
February 24, 2025 at 9:34 pm
I’ll get here one day. Reading this makes me want to get there faster!