Throughout the 19th century, women unsurprisingly played tennis fully clothed in modest long dresses and hats.
Naturally, the frustration of many female athletes rose as they wore outfits unsuitable for a highly active game. But, things were soon about to change. In 1920, French Grand Slam champion Suzanne Lengden wore a scandalous calf-length skirt whilst competing at The Championships of Wimbledon.
French designer Jean Patou was the creator of the skirt in question. In the midst of controversy over women’s clothing – or lack of it – in sport, the design was groundbreaking. Out of this act of rebellion came the classic tennis skirt, which continues to be a timeless piece in our sporting and summer wardrobes. As Lengden continued to collaborate with Patou, she became the face of casual sporting style. In other words, she was the original ‘athleisure’ influencer.
The origins of Tennis
Tennis has continued in steady fashion since the 12th century in Northern France. In its early phases, the game involved hitting a ball with one’s open palm. Although hard to imagine, tennis racquets didn’t appear until the 16th century. Upper classes historically associated the game with their lifestyle, one which often contained luxury country clubs and outdoor swimming pools.
Although far more accessible now, tennis’s attachment to hedonism has not been completely fazed out. Social media’s newfound appreciation for the ‘Old Money’ aesthetic is where collegiate cable neck collides head on with freshwater pearls. Tennis skirts, jumpers and bracelets are staples to achieving that preppy sophisticated look, with a tennis racket in hand optional.
Competition style
History reached a turning point when the tennis skirt evolved after Lengden’s act of defiance. Since then, Wimbledon has continued to enforce a strict dress code on its players. Athletes have worn white since the 1880s, ensuring a level of appropriate prestige and aesthetic is maintained. For many spectators, the event is a key social event which provides the opportunity to don a floral dress, blazer and espadrilles. The epitome of that ‘old money aesthetic’. Whether sporting a white suit (with a nod to tennis couture) or a wedding guest worthy outfit, Wimbledon goers have set the tennis style precedent.
The vibe doesn’t end with the guests as the staff must be seen looking the part as well. The entire competition prioritises appearance, which is reflected in its heritage, longevity and tradition. In 2022, Wimbledon sponsor Ralph Lauren redesigned the uniform worn by the tennis staff. The clothing looked to combine the ‘timeless Ralph Lauren aesthetic while simultaneously respecting the heritage of the Wimbledon tournament.’ Of course, who other than the creator of the preppy polo shirt could be asked to design the staffs attire. This timeless style is continuously on the rise.
Tennis in film
Tennis is a visually aesthetic sport, both off and on screen. The latest tennis drama ‘Challengers’, directed by Luca Guadagnino starred Zendaya, Mike Faist and Patrick Zweig. What did we get? A tense love triangle and an insight into the lifestyle of tennis players. Not only did the characters provide a look into the world of professional athletes, but they also took us on a tennis style journey through the ages.
As the film throws between past and present, it makes for an easy style comparison. Zweig’s chequed, just above the knee, cotton shorts contextualise the boxer short trend of 2024. This original tennis short captures comfort, practicality and style. A short which can be easily worn for sport, but also for lounging, beach days and even going out. Zendaya’s sleek tennis whites transgressed into her tennis inspired preppy coach wardrobe as the film progressed. Regardless, the game played a part in every single one of her outfits during the film.
‘Athleisure’ wear
Mainstream fashion repeatedly takes pieces worn during sport and turns them into everyday items of clothing. The rise of ‘athleisure’ is a part of our everyday lives whether we are about to embark in a sporting pursuit or not. It’s now perfectly easy to give the illusion that you are either about to go or have been to the gym. For example, leggings which were once reserved only for running can now be easily worn day to day. People want to be comfortable and active but they also want to look good. Brands such as Lululemon encapsulate all of these factors into their sleek, sought after pieces.
Well known tennis brands such as Lacoste and Adidas still continue to provide what they always have: multipurpose pieces suitable for a game of tennis. However, with a nod to the rise of ‘athleisure’, the brands have an interest in maintaining that preppy, put together style, traditionally associated with tennis.
Vintage
Vintage and second hand clothing are increasingly popular in the rise of the slow fashion movement. Influencers have been drawn to that ‘old money aesthetic’ as it often incorporates those easily thrifted, timeless pieces.
Luckily, tennis style encapsulates a ‘vintage’ look, mainly because the game has never gone out of style. Items such as tennis skirts, jumpers and shoes are easily available second hand, given their abundance in circulation. A vintage tennis bracelet passed through generations or picked up at an antiques store allows a subtle nod to tennis core. Undoubtedly, wearing your mom’s tennis skirt from the 90s would be the best way to fit in.
Although a sport rooted in history and class, tennis continues to be one of the most popular, currently the 3rd most widely played in the world. Tennis’s style travels with it, transcending the years to create that timeless, sporting chic look.
As for me, walking out of the cinema (post Guadagnino’s Challengers) with my girlfriends prompted the same response from us all. ‘Let’s start playing tennis.’ In short, the sexiness, style and suspense made us all want to be (and dress like) tennis players.
So the next time you’re either relaxing in a tennis skirt or you’re about to run onto the court, remember who you can thank for changing the history of women’s tennis style.
